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Mites & My Mite Death Program
 What are mites?
Snake mites are small parasitic organisms that utilize the blood of the
host organism as their sole food source.
How do I identify mites?
After handling your boa, you may notice small black "bugs" crawling on
your hand. These are mites. It is also common to see them crawling on the
head of your animal. If you check the water dish in a mite infested
enclosure, you will frequently find mites drowned at the bottom of the
dish.
Why should I worry about mites?
There are two reasons to be alarmed by the presence of mites on your
animal:
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Mites have a short reproductive cycle and can quickly
attain a population that can overwhelm the host organism (your boa). A
steady loss of blood will weaken the animal and make it susceptible to
other conditions such as respiratory infection.
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Mites can serve as vectors for disease. In other words,
mites can feed from a diseased animal and then travel to a healthy animal
and transmit the disease.
How do snake keepers get rid of mites?
There are a wide range of practices employed in the hobby for killing
mites. You could ask 10 different people at a reptile show and you're
likely to get 10 different methods. The most common answers will employ
some means of chemical attack using a pesticide. Pest strip, Provent-A-Mite,
and Black Knight are probably the most common weapons used in battling
mites, but there are new products entering the market each year. I will
not discuss these products here because I am not a supporter of subjecting
boas to these products. You can find plenty of information about these
products by consulting a book on boa husbandry or doing an on-line search
about them. Mites are a frequent topic of discussion on the Internet
forums. Here are two references where keepers with lots of experience have
generously taken the time to share their methods. You can judge their
merit.
Vida Precosia International
Pro Exotics Why don't you support these products?
When I first started building my collection, I had the unfortunate (but
all too common) experience of receiving an animal that was infested with
mites. As this was my first experience with mites, I sought the advice of
others. I was told to obtain "pest strip" at the local hardware store, cut
a few small pieces, and place them in a film canister with holes punched
in it. I was advised to remove the water dish from the enclosure then
place the film canister in with the boa. I was told to leave it in for 10 days.
The animal in question was a beautiful 3.5' male Guyanan with exceptional
purple coloration. I put the pest strip in with him one evening and left
it overnight. The next day, I removed the boa to inspect him and
immediately noticed that something was wrong. The animal began twisting
its head in an odd fashion. He was looping his head around and around. I
put him on the floor. It became obvious that the animal had no control
over its movements. It was a frightening and grotesque display.....one
that I will likely never forget. The animal died within two days....and so
did my use of commercial products for the control of mites.
How do you kill mites?
I use a readily available household chemical called dihydrogen monoxide.
Applied in the correct manner, it is lethal to mites. This is the method:
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Obtain an appropriately sized plastic container. It is
especially important for young boas that they be able to "span" the width
of this container and support themselves with the sides.
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Obtain some dish soap in the container. I use Dawn.
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Obtain warm (82-84*F) dihydrogen monoxide from the tap.
The amount of "water" I use depends on the size of the animal and the size
of the container. For young boas, I will usually just use 3-5 inches. It
is important that the boa does not have to constantly swim as it will tire
out. The animal should be able to span the container and support itself.
For large boas, I tend to fill the container about 70% full so that their
bodies are covered but there is room for their head to protrude from the
water and obtain oxygen. I check the temperature of the water with an
infrared temperature "gun". It is easy to use water that is too warm for
your boa. Your skin is around 98*F so water that is 90*F will feel
somewhat cool to the touch. Using a temperature gun or thermometer you
will eventually learn what 82-84 degree water feels like. The soap reduces
the surface tension of the water and allows the water to interact more
easily with the mites.
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I let the boas soak in the water for 2-5 hours. If it is
cool in the house, I will sit a small container on top of my upright
freezer so the water will stay warm. For large containers, I will sit it
on the floor with a human heating pad under one side. I periodically check
the temperature of the water. More frequently, I do a quick visual check
on the boas themselves.
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When the soaking is complete, you should (but not always)
have direct evidence of the presence of mites. Skim the soap bubbles to
the side with your hand and observe the bottom for drowned mites. One
potential complication is that warm water will also encourage your boa to
relieve themselves. This is a problem because you won't be able to see the
mites. That is another reason I check back frequently. If the animal
defecates in the water, I immediately change the water.
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I have two levels of quarantine - one for known mite
carriers and one for mite free animals. While the animal is soaking, I
prepare for the possibility that it is carrying mites. I get a plastic
container with a white top and just provide a simple arrangement of
newspaper and water dish. After coming out of the extended soaking, I dry
the animal and place it in the container. This container is kept in an
area separate from my normal quarantine rack. Over the next few days, I
will take the container to a well lit spot and remove the lid. I
immediately flip the lid over and inspect the white surface for mites or
their eggs. Mites will tend to lay their eggs at the highest point in an
enclosure. If I find no mites on the top, I will check the sides of the
enclosure and the water dish. If I find mites, I prepare another soapy
water bath and the animal goes back in. If the container shows a lot of
mites, I sometimes take it outside, remove the water dish, spray Black
Knight inside, and close the lid. I let the container sit with the Black
Knight for at least an hour. I throw away the newspaper, thoroughly wash
the container with soap and hot water, dry it, and prepare it for the
return of the animal. I DO NOT expose the animal directly to Black Knight. The checking and soaking is repeated until I am
satisfied that there are no mites. At this point, the animal is placed in
my "regular" quarantine area. From my experience, mites are removed after
1 or 2 soakings. Occasionally with a larger animal, I have had to use 3 or
4 soakings to rid the animal of mites. Yes, this is hard work but I feel
it is well worth it to have the peace of mind that my boas will be
mite-free and also not suffer any health effects from being exposed to
pesticides.
There are certainly some desirable results that can be
accomplished by soaking your boa. Soaking is BOTH diagnostic &
prescriptive! Soaking contributes the following:
- Discover if mites were present on your boa.
- Kill mites.
- Clear their gastrointestinal tract.
- Encourage a good shed.
- Make them sparkly clean.
The Key to my Mite Death Program - the Arrival of a New
Animal
The key is to establish a mite-free colony and then have a strategy for
keeping it that way. I freely admit that my method would be difficult if
you walked into your snake room one day and discovered that you had 40
boas crawling with mites. My main collection is upstairs and I have never
had mites in that room. Sadly, you can pretty well expect to get mites
delivered to your house if you are obtaining animals at a show or having
them shipped in. Don't assume that breeders who are well known and seem to
have good reputations won't send you mites. I can tell you that I have
received mites from all types. When a new animal is delivered to my house,
there is one thing I do before I even open the box. Can you guess what
it is? Yep - I prepare the warm, soapy water bath. I open the box and
inspect the animal. Open the box in an area that is isolated from your
collection. I only let the animal touch my hands...not crawl around my
neck or clothes and spread mites that will go undetected. I place the
animal in the water and then inspect my hands for mites. Next, inspect the
snake bag that contained the animal for the previous 15-20 hours. Start at
the top of the inside and slowly roll back the bag to reveal more and more
of the interior. It really helps if the bag is one of those clean, white,
all cotton bags. I also give a brief inspection to the box. Even if I find
no mites, I immediately put the snake bag back inside the box and take it
to my attic. It will stay in there for at least 3 months and endure
extremes in temperature with no water. If I remove a snake bag from the
attic, it goes immediately into the washing machine followed by the dryer.
This may all sound a bit extreme, but in my opinion, it is well worth it
if it keeps your collection mite-free.
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